![]() ![]() Who said fancy meters aren t welcome to be mentioned here? Considering I mentioned mine. Train layouts, checking 12V circuits in your car, basic testing if you get into using Arduinos - it's a fine tool for those kind of jobs. There is nothing remotely dangerous about using it to check track power and otherwise troubleshoot low voltage layout wiring, so don't get the wrong idea, but don't go poking in your breaker box with it. The only fuse they have is for the DC milliamp range, anything else, they are hoping the board fries or the reather thin leads they supply act as a 'fuse' if something goes wrong. But the internals of those inexpensive ones are just not designed for safe use of high voltage. Most top off at 100Hz or maybe 1KHz if you're lucky). They are more accurate with DC track voltage than most of the fancier True RMS types (my old Fluke 8060 is probably the one exception - it does True RMS up past 20KHz. I've seen people selling the Centech ones at train shows for as much as $20 - but it's the exact same meter you get a Harbor Freight for $5, $1 or even free if you watch the coupons. They're plenty for model railroad use, if that's all you do there is no point in buying a more expensive meter. I have at least a half dozen of them laying around. While those are the kind of leads I would want for my good meters (and two of my Flukes do have genuine Fluke test leads), now that we know the OP has Centech meter, $100 probes for a $5 meter are kind of nuts.Ĭat IV rating - well, despite the scale being present on the Centech to read house current, the last thing I would ever use for checking house wiring would be one of those.
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